Kart Lap Timers, & AMB Transponders

Kart Stolen

Filed under: GX160 Tuning,The Pro-Kart — Kart-Crazy.co.uk @ 11:31 am 20, June, 2013

Unfortunately some scum has help themselves to my project Pro-Kart.

So the engine tuning project has now ended.

Getting More Compression – on the cheap!

Filed under: GX160 Tuning — Kart-Crazy.co.uk @ 9:27 am 19, March, 2013

My understanding is that more compression = more power.

It has always been very common to get heads skimmed when tuning engines. This reduces the volume of the combustion chamber, thus increases compression.

But how to skim the head if you do not have a work shop and want to spend zero £s?

Well my cheapskate answer is to use emery cloth. I have used a large sheet of emery cloth on a good flat surface (my coffee table). Then carefully rubbed the head over the cloth.

Before I started I measured the combustion chamber volume at 15ml and the distance from the head main surface to the rocker cover surface at 73.96mm.

GX160 T2 Engine For Sale

Filed under: GX160 Tuning,New Products — Kart-Crazy.co.uk @ 12:29 pm 7, December, 2012

Stage 2 (Kart Crazy Clubman) – De-governed. G4 valve springs. Modified air filter. Quick release throttle clip. Pulse pump connector. RPM sensor take off. Size 70 main jet fitted. 30 to 45 mins running in on a race track. De-baffled Exhaust Dyno tested. Minimum 6.9bhp.  Fully MSA legal.

Cost £395 on e-bay – or e-mail us at Contact@Kart-Crazy.co.uk and the price is £375

Price is for the engine ONLY, it does not include the clutch, engine cover or pulse pump. These can be added at additional cost; Good condition used clutch £30. New engine cover £15. Good condition, used, pulse pump £15

Stage 2 Honda GX160 Kart Engines On Track

Filed under: GX160 Tuning,The Pro-Kart — Kart-Crazy.co.uk @ 4:08 pm 27, November, 2012

I finally got the kart out at Clay Pigeon with both “stage 2″ engines fitted.

One still does not tick over well. I guess I need to give the carb a really good clean and spray though with carb cleaner.

The engines felt strong on the track and were pulling well. The speedo indicated a top speed just under 60mph.

However there was a VEY strong wind, so strong you could not walk in a straight line! So I was unable to improve my lap times. The best I did was 42 secs.

However I’m sure I can get under 40 with these engines on a day without a gale & damp track – but I wonder how long I will have to wait

Honda GX160 T2 Engine Photos

Filed under: GX160 Tuning,Kart Crazy Racing — Kart-Crazy.co.uk @ 1:10 pm 5, November, 2012

Here are a few photos of the inside of a Honda GX160 T2 engine. I thought they maybe of interest or useful to anyone building thier own kart race engine.

Stage 2 Dyno Runs

Filed under: GX160 Tuning — Kart-Crazy.co.uk @ 2:01 pm 9, October, 2012

Today I had both tuned engines on the dyno.

Honda GX160 Kart Engine Dyno Graphs

Both engines are showing a good improvement. Although both have some “holes” in the power curve. Jeff at ProKartEngineering thought these were due to carburetion. Possibility making the choke too big (with the 15mm drill!) or they may need different emulsion tubes.

I have not had both the engines together on the track, so for the time being I’ll leave them as they are so I can assess the lap times.

Both needed 75 jets fitted (actually 70 jets I had drilled out to 0.75mm – no money spent!)

Both engines were holding the power well – still giving good power at 6,500RPM. Before the mods. they were running out of steam at 5600RPM.

Stage 2 Engine – Out Again

Filed under: GX160 Tuning,The Pro-Kart — Kart-Crazy.co.uk @ 2:37 pm 1, October, 2012

On 29 Sept I took the other stage 2 engine for a run, alongside the Honda T2 engine I’m running in.

This engine ran well and picked up fine from low revs, so I guess the first engine I tried has a minor ignition fault or some dirt in the carb.

Hopefully I’ll get out at Clay Pigeon within the next two weeks with both tuned engines and see what lap times I can get.

First Run Out With Stage 2 Engine

Filed under: GX160 Tuning — Kart-Crazy.co.uk @ 6:34 am 27, September, 2012

I took one of the stage two engines out at Clay Pigeon on 24 Sept. It was used in the pro-kart along side a new Honda GX160 T2 engine I was running in for my son’s cadet kart (more info. and photos of the T2 engine soon).

Because it was used along side the T2 engine no meaningful info about lap times/power increase could be taken. However it was clear the engine had a low end mis-fire, but once it hit about 4500RPM it started pulling well.

I do not know if this problem is caused by the change of carb size or altering the ignition timing.

I need to put more time in on the T2 engine, so I’ll put the other stage 2 engine in and see if it has the same problem.

Honda GX160 T2 Engines

Filed under: GX160 Tuning,Kart Crazy Racing — Kart-Crazy.co.uk @ 10:35 am 23, September, 2012

I have bought two T2 engines for my son’s cadet kart and to assess them against the T1 & K engines he currently uses.

These engines will be kept 100% within the MSA rules.

I’ll add some photos etc. of the engine internals once I have time.

Altering GX160 Ignition Timing

Filed under: GX160 Tuning — Kart-Crazy.co.uk @ 7:24 am 17, August, 2012

I understand advancing the ignition timing gives good improvement. The engine is designed to run in generators at about 3,500 RPM, thus if we want to run it at 3,500 to 6,000 RPM it makes sense to advance the ignition. In cars etc this is done automatically.

honad GX160 Ignition Coil

Honda GX160 Ignition Coil. Standard coil on the left, modified one on the right.


The timing on the GX160 is not capable of changing with RPM. The most common way to change the ignition appears to be the “off set keys” which rotates the flywheel 4 or 8 degrees. However I am trying to tune for £0 – so I needed to find a different way.

The circumference of the flywheel is  545mm. Thus 1 degree of timing is about 1.5mm.

The coil is held on with 6mm bolts, so I drilled these out to 10mm and then “ovaled” the hole another few mm until there was only a few mm left. This allowed me to move the coil about 5mm, which is 3 degrees.

The engine runs OK on the bench like this – but as yet has not been tested on the track.

Drilling the coil was not easy – after doing this job I think it would be easier to just buy the offset key!



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